Wakayama Daibakusho Fujibo Textile / Reiwa Fiber Restoration (Sweatshirt)

Future Yarn / Adopted "Brewed Protein TM Fiber"
Fujibo Textile is a finishing and dyeing factory that performs processes such as washing, dyeing, and imparting texture and functionality. Like knitting, it is an important process that directly affects the quality of the fabric, and its high technical skill has earned it great trust from knitters in Wakayama. Although it is an unsung hero, this project would not have been realized without Fujibo Textile. Fujibo Textile is a pioneer in the dyeing and processing of "Brewed Protein TM Fiber," an artificial protein material developed by Spiber.
──Fujibo Textile has been researching the dyeing and processing of "Brewed Protein TM Fiber" for some time, haven't they?
Ito: The challenge with Spiber began three years ago after A-GIRL'S approached us. It took about a year to establish the technology through trial and error. From there, it has further developed to where we are now.
── "Brewed Protein TM Fiber" is a protein material artificially created using the power of microorganisms, but are there any existing fibers similar to it?
Ito: It has a soft touch similar to silk and cashmere, but the dyeing and processing methods were completely different from existing animal fibers. Since it is a protein, it is weak to alkali, and dyeing can make it stiff, so temperature control is also important. While dyeing and processing methods for silk and cashmere are established, it was extremely difficult due to the differences.
── What were the particularly difficult points?
Ito: Brewed Protein TM Fiber has a unique softness and touch at the raw fabric stage (before dyeing and processing). It's like cotton blended with silk. The key point was how to retain that texture.
── There are five companies that knit using Brewed Protein TM Fiber this time, and Fujibo was in charge of all of them except for some products. You are an authority on dyeing and processing Brewed Protein TM Fiber.
Ito: We established the technology based on our know-how with wool and silk. We researched temperature control and dyes, and became able to handle everything from pre-treatment to dyeing, but this is the best we can do at the moment. We believe that the material, Brewed Protein TM Fiber, still has a lot of room for growth and is not yet complete.
── Please tell us about Fujibo's products.
The main yarn is 20-count yarn, 10% Brewed Protein TM Fiber and 90% cotton. Okazaki Knit was in charge of knitting. We thought a standard fabric would best bring out the yarn's qualities, so we chose a classic jersey for T-shirts and a 3-thread fleece with a loop-knitted texture, made on a modified sinker knitting machine, for hoodies. Both allow you to enjoy the unique touch of Brewed Protein TM Fiber.
── Commercializing new materials involves various difficulties. What is the significance for processing plants?
Ito: In the past, there were many new fibers invented in Japan. Their emergence led to dramatic improvements in dyeing, processing, and knitting technology. Now, similarly, Brewed Protein TM Fiber has appeared, and we are undoubtedly leveling up. Challenging things we haven't done before is very important for continuing the factory.
From an environmental perspective, cotton, which uses a large amount of water, will become difficult to use in the apparel industry in the future. Brewed Protein TM Fiber could cause a drastic "fiber revolution" as a new material to replace cotton. If such a future comes, this item might be recorded in history as the first step.