Wakayama Dai Bakusho | WAKAYAMA DAIBAKUSHO HANWA / SUPER HANWA BROS. (Sweatshirt)

Future yarn / Adopted "Brewed Protein TM Fiber"
From yarn development, fabric knitting, sewing, printing, to finishing. "Hanwa" handles almost all processes related to apparel. They are known in the industry as a "department store of fabrics" due to their development capabilities and extensive product line that meets diverse needs for men, women, casual, formal, etc. This time, we have incorporated the new material Brewed Protein TM Fiber into Hanwa's signature vintage taste. We interviewed representative Takahiro Minamikata.
-When did you learn about Brewed Protein TM Fiber?
Minamikata: In June 2024, there was an exhibition in Paris. Brewed Protein TM Fiber is fluffy, so fabrics mixed with cashmere and high-quality combed cotton were exhibited. It was a good material, but I thought Brewed Protein TM Fiber, with its bulkiness, could also be used for casual wear. When I spoke with the team exhibiting, they thought it was interesting, but there was no one willing to actually do it. So, we decided to take on the challenge. It's for the Expo, after all.
-Is this Brewed Protein TM Fiber yarn specifically for this project?
Minamikata: Yes. We blended 12% Brewed Protein TM Fiber and 88% cotton carded yarn to create a 16-count yarn. It's a yarn that has the smoothness and bulkiness of Brewed Protein TM Fiber, along with the vintage feel of carded yarn. We made T-shirts and hoodies with it.
-Please tell us about the products.
Minamikata: The T-shirts are made with reversible jersey. It's a knitting method where the back yarn of the fleece fabric used for sweatshirts is omitted, and the middle yarn becomes the skin side, also called plating. We used Brewed Protein TM Fiber on the front and elastic polyester on the back. The Brewed Protein TM Fiber yarn is thick and has stiffness and bulk, so without adding a stretchy material, the T-shirts would become too stiff. I think we were able to express a moderate casual feel and the softness and fluffiness that Brewed Protein has.
-What about the hoodies?
Minamikata: They are made with fleece, which we specialize in. The front uses Rafi (a yarn made from recycled cotton scraps from the yarn manufacturing process, creating a natural unevenness), the middle yarn is carded cotton (cotton yarn that has undergone carding to remove unnecessary fibers from the surface, resulting in fuzz, crispness, and a cool feel), and the back yarn uses a double yarn of the same Brewed Protein TM Fiber as the T-shirts. By the way, all the yarns are spun in Japan.
-Double yarn of Brewed Protein TM Fiber on the back?
Minamikata: Yes. A single 16-count yarn wouldn't have enough loop punch. To make it thicker, we sent the Brewed Protein TM Fiber yarn to a twisting mill to create a double yarn. This gives the fleece volume, so I believe you can really feel the softness and skin-friendliness of Brewed Protein TM Fiber.
-The custom yarn is further customized into a double yarn and used on the back for improved comfort. The front yarn is Rafi for a vintage feel. These items are packed with Hanwa's signature style.
Minamikata: Actually, we used the same knitting machine for both the T-shirts and hoodies this time. It was a challenge, so to speak, to see how much range of expression we could achieve with the same machine. We don't normally do this, but it's special for the Expo. The result is a great product.
-What kind of knitting machine is it?
Minamikata: It's a late 1970s fleece knitting machine. Normally, we knit orthodox fabrics on this machine, but this time we significantly altered the settings to create an irregular knitting pattern.
Let's go on an adventure wearing "Super Hanwa Brothers," born from the same knitting machine and using Japanese-made yarn, showcasing the full potential of Wakayama knitters.