Wakayama Daibakusho / ZERO DYEING (Sweatshirt)

Future thread / Adopted "Saikuru Cotton®"
Toyo Dyeing is a dyeing and processing factory that excels at reproducing vintage items. Rare machines such as 1950s-60s Wins dyeing machines and steam tumbler dryers are still in operation, producing peel-off processing that creates a used, faded look that was impossible with reaction dyes that resist fading, and 100-year brushing that revives the brushed finish of sweatshirts made 100 years ago. Using their uniquely developed dyeing and processing technology, they produce high-quality domestic sweatshirts and reproduction products. This time, we used 100% recycled material yarn, "Saikuru Cotton®", and created "Zero Dyeing" finished without any dyeing or processing in-house. We interviewed Mr. Taiki Tanaka, who was in charge.
──The "Saikuru Cotton®" used this time is made from 50% "post-consumer" recycled from used clothing that has been made into products, and 50% "pre-consumer" yarn waste generated during spinning. Post-consumer is from black products, and pre-consumer is dyed black when returned to cotton, but what was the quality like?
Tanaka: We specialize in processing cotton fabrics, so we were interested in "Saikuru Cotton®". When I heard it was 100% recycled and half of it was made from old clothes, I thought it would be a stiff yarn, but I was surprised to find it was softer than I imagined when I actually saw it. You can't tell the difference compared to regular virgin cotton. The color is also pure black. I was thinking of dyeing it if it was light, but since it wasn't necessary, I decided to try and see how soft "Saikuru Cotton®" could become with our washing and drying.
──What about the knitting?
Tanaka: It was slowly knitted on a vintage circular knitting machine, which is only available in Wakayama. The T-shirts are circular knitted jersey, and the hoodies are circular knitted fleece. Both use 14-gauge yarn.
──The T-shirt is a deep black that you wouldn't expect from recycled cotton. It has the soft texture and elasticity of circular knitted jersey, giving it the feel of a classic T-shirt. On the other hand, the hoodie looks like a heather gray.
Tanaka: This is a pattern unique to circular knitting. In fact, about 30% of the inner yarn appears on the surface of circular knitted fleece. Therefore, if you want to make black fleece, you use the same color for the outer yarn and the inner yarn. This time, I thought a pattern would be more interesting than pure black, so I used black Saikuru Cotton® for the outer yarn and ecru for the inner yarn, creating a heathered look.
──This is the first time I've seen heathered fleece.
Tanaka: Knitters don't do this because the pattern varies depending on the individual knitting machine. It's rare for it to be commercialized as a product of Wakayama Daibakusho, which can disregard production efficiency.
──The fleece has a fluffy, vintage feel with 100-year brushing, but what other processing was done?
Tanaka: Nothing special. The knitted fabric was washed in a Wins machine without stress, and then tumble-dried with steam to finish it plumply. We brought out the best of the material through the processes we normally use.
A T-shirt & fleece hoodie made of black Saikuru Cotton®, approved by dyeing professionals. Don't miss this opportunity, circular knitting fans.